VF’s Quarter and Results for the Year: One Sentence Caught my Attention

Okay, strong balance sheet, revenue growth, profitable, blah, blah, blah. I’ll get to all that. But on page 22 of the conference call an analyst asked about their interest in potential acquisitions. The answer from CFO Bob Shearer, in part, was “…how we think about acquisition targets, and we think about it a lot, and yes, we have a list. But we think about brands that are complementary to our brand portfolio that help us reach customers/consumers.” 

I added the italics and bold type. You wouldn’t think that their having a list would get me quite this interested, but it does. Consider what it means. They have a list of companies they might want to buy. I assume they didn’t create this list by throwing darts or rolling die. Maybe there’s a drinking game! Probably not. They had a process whereby they looked at the brands they own, with whom and how they compete, and their customer segmentation. Then they surveyed the universe of competitors and analyzed and selected the ones they thought might be good fits.
 
Okay, I don’t want to make VF sound too omnipotent here. Maybe they aren’t as rigorous as I’m suggesting. Acquisitions in this industry, in my experience, have a large element of serendipity to them. Still, such a process would be consistent with the management rigor I think I hear in their public information. And it would be important managing their portfolio of brands.
 
Just so you see how important, here’s a list of the brands they own and the markets those brands are in.
 
 
That’s a lot of brands, a lot of markets, and quite a bit of market overlap. Randomly buying brands because they were “a good deal” and increased revenue would result in an unmanageable behemoth pretty quickly. That, I assume, is where the rigor of developing the list comes in. Deals they make will be supportive of markets where they already participate and have expertise.
 
Their management rigor also shows up in their operations. VF makes around 500 million units of product a year for 35 brands. They own 28 of their own factories and work with 1,800 contract manufacturers in 60 countries. They’ve got 29 distribution centers and 1,246 retail stores under various brands.
 
In what is probably an understatement, they say in the 10K (you can see it here), “Managing this complexity is made possible by the use of a network of information systems for product development, forecasting, order management and warehouse management, attached to our core enterprise resource management platforms.”
 
Why is this a good thing? Here’s another quote from the 10K.
 
“We believe that we will be able to remain cost competitive in 2014 due to our scale and significance to our suppliers. Absent any material changes, VF believes it would be able to largely offset any increases in product costs through: (i) the continuing shift in the mix of its business to higher margin brands, geographies and channels of distribution; (ii) increases in the prices of its products; and (iii) cost reduction opportunities. The loss of any one supplier or contractor would not have a significant adverse effect on our business.”
 
Not sexy maybe, but I’d characterize all this boring operations stuff as a critical competitive advantage. It’s particularly important for integrating and realizing value from an acquisition. Anybody can buy a company. It takes good management and hard work to integrate it effectively into an existing organization. And careful selection of the acquisition target, which brings us back to their list of company’s they watch. Having tied that together, we can now move on to the numbers.
 
Fourth quarter revenues were $3.29 billion, with a net profit of $368 million, or 11.2%. Outdoor & Action Sports revenues were up 12% for the quarter. The North Face rose by 12% and Vans by 14%. “Vans was up at a low-double-digit rate in the Americas, up 20% in Europe and up at nearly the same rate in Asia.”
 
For the year, VF’s revenues rose 5% from $10.77 to $11.3 billion. The growth was all organic. That is, there were no acquisitions in 2013.
 
38% of revenue was from outside the U.S. Direct to consumer, which includes retail stores, outlet stores and online represented 22% of revenue compared to 21% a year ago. Ecommerce by itself was $327 million, or 2.9% of total revenue. Of their 1,246 retail stores, 1,166 carry only a single VF brand. The other 80 are VF outlet stores. The plan is to open another 150 stores in 2014 focused mostly on Vans, The North Face, Timberland and Splendid.
 
They also note, “In addition to our direct-to-consumer operations, our licensees, distributors and other independent parties own and operate over 3,000 partnership stores…”
 
The Outdoor & Action Sports segment grew from $5.866 to $6.379 billion and represents almost 56% of total revenue for the year. It generated an operating profit of $1.106 billion, representing 57.3% of VF’s total operating profit for the year of $1.93 billion.
 
“The Outdoor & Action Sports Coalition revenues increased 9% in 2013 over 2012 primarily due to an increase in unit volume. The North Face, Vans, and Timberland brands achieved global revenue growth of 7%, 17% and 5%, respectively. U.S. revenues increased 7% in 2013 and international revenues increased 10% with balanced growth in Europe and Asia Pacific. Direct-to-consumer revenues rose 15% in 2013 driven by increases of 28% and 15% for The North Face and Vans brands, respectively. New store openings, comp store growth and an expanding e-commerce business all contributed to the direct-to-consumer revenue growth.”
 
The North Face grew its revenues by 20% in Asia and at a “mid-single digit” rate in Europe. They don’t tell us what happened in the U.S. but given those numbers it seems to imply that things weren’t that good.
 
One analyst, referring to The North Face, asked if they’d seen any changes in the competitive environment. Steve Rendle, Group President of Outdoor and Action Sports Americas answered, “The competitive set in the outdoor industry remains the same. As North Face transcends that outdoor space it takes on a whole lot of new competitors.”
 
Those new competitors a brand encounters as it extends its reach is something I’ve talked about often. It’s a whole new competitive environment and we can all think of brands that haven’t done well trying to extend themselves. But they weren’t VF’s size with its management processes and balance sheet. Part of how they expect to succeed, Steve Rendle says in response to another question, is because The North Face “…is very much a pre-booked business model…we will buy to that order book and that order book is about 90% to 95% of our total revenue.”
 
They don’t, in other words, risk making too much product and over distributing. As you know, I like that a lot. It’s important to building a brand.    
 
Vans, we learn, passed $1 billion in the Americas in 2013. They highlight that Vans is no longer just a footwear brand and is having success moving into apparel. They note that, “According to data from more than 160 US board shops, Vans is a top 10 brand in almost all of our men’s apparel and accessory categories.”
 
Okay, that has to be data from Action Watch. I’m wondering just what it means to be in the top 10. How many brands of men’s apparel or accessories does a specialty shop carry? Wish some analyst had asked for a more detailed explanation.
 
Van’s international business was up 23% for the year. There was a mid-20% increase in Europe and a “high-teen” increase in Asia. I’d like a bit more specific information. Given the overall increase of 17% and the increases they mention for Europe and Asia, what should I assume for the U.S? It’s interesting that they provide percentage growth numbers for the other areas, but not the U.S. or at least the Americas.
 
Gross margin rose from 46.5% to 48.1%. “The increase in gross margin reflects lower product costs and the continued shift in the revenue mix towards higher margin businesses, including Outdoor & Action Sports, international and direct-to-consumer,” management said.
 
Selling, general and administrative expenses rose from $3.597 to $3.841 billion. As a percentage of total revenues it rose from 33.1% to 33.6%. This was partly because they choose to make some additional marketing expenditures “…to support future growth for our largest and fastest growing businesses.” Kind of nice to have a balance sheet that supports that kind of decision making. It was also higher because Timberland was included for a whole year for the first time. Advertising and promotion expense alone was $671.3 million, or 5.9% of revenue.
 
Interest expense was $80.6 million for the year. The weighted average interest rate was 4.5%. I just mention that because I wonder about the impact on VF, and lots of other companies, when interest rates rise substantially. That is going to happen, and if I knew when I’d get very, very rich.
 
Net income was $1.21 billion, up from $1.09 billion last year.
 
The balance sheet is strong, with a current ratio of 2.5 and a debt to total capital ratio of only 19.3%. Inventory was up a bit, but less than you’d expect given the revenue growth. Receivables were up 11.3%- more than twice the revenue growth.
 
If I could ask a couple of balance sheet related questions just because I have an inquiring mind, the first would be about the accrued liabilities. They total $905 million, and are mostly broken down in Note J. But the biggest single entry, for $209 million, is “other.” It’s not that it’s a big number for VF, but I’m curious what’s in it. Oh well, guess we’ll never know.
 
The second would focus on Note M on their retirement and savings benefit plans. Not much a question as a comment. I note that their expected rate of return on plans assets in 2013 was 5.7%. Obviously, the higher your expected return, the less you have to put into the plans each year to meet the obligations. VF’s 5.7% may still, in my opinion, turn out to be a bit high, but it’s certainly reasonable. Good for them for being realistic. When you see a company (or a municipality, or a state) claim their pension plan is “fully funded,” that’s based on certain assumptions about how long people are going to live and how much the plan assets are going to earn. If those assumptions aren’t reasonable, then the plan is probably not fully funded. Ask the pension holders in Detroit.
 
Okay, I know nobody wants to hear any more about that, so I’ll move on.
 
VF’s four growth drivers are leading in innovation, connecting with consumers, serving consumers directly wherever and however they want to engage the company’s brands, and continuing to expand geographically from the Americas to Europe and Asia in mature and emerging markets. Those might sound a bit like platitudes taken in isolation. But in conjunction with the strategies and management processes we’ve highlighted here, they seem credible.

   

VF’s Quarter; Outdoor and Action Sports Continue to Lead, But…

There are, to my way of thinking, three main points to be made about VF’s September 30 quarter. The first is that the Outdoor & Action Sports (OAS) segment revenues as reported rose 6.43%. Excluding a $32 million foreign exchange gain, the increase was 4.7%. Jeanswear was up 3.89% as reported and the other segments (Imagewear, Sportswear, Contemporary Brands, and Other) were basically flat for the quarter.  Excluding foreign currency changes, OAS reported an operating loss of $1.7 million.  There are good, even positive, reasons why, and I’ll discuss them below.  But I still don’t like it.

OAS includes, as you know, Vans, The North Face, Timberland and Reef. Don’t forget it also includes Jansport, Kipling, Smartwool, Eastpak, Eagle Creek, Lucy and Napapijri. I’d suggest you take a minute to check out VF’s web site and see where those other brands are positioned. I found it kind of interesting as I continue to think about the junction of action sports, youth culture, outdoor and fashion.
 
The second point is the wonderfulness of a strong balance sheet. VF spends some time in their conference call discussing some additional investments they are going to make. As CEO Eric Wiseman puts it, “…we think a challenging environment is the ideal time to upshift and hit the gas pedal a bit harder on marketing and product initiatives, supporting and helping to drive traffic to our wholesale partners, and of course, our own Direct-to-Consumer business by strengthening our connection with consumers, and creating even more meaningful engagement with our brands is key to our long-term success.”
 
He goes on to discuss how they’ve done this before, and that they are going to spend an additional $30 million in the fourth quarter and a total of $40 million extra in the second half, 80% on OAS and most of that focused on Vans, The North Face and Timberland. It’s also “…about 70% positioned outside the U.S. and heavily D2C weighted…”   He acknowledges that’s $0.25 a share, but that they will still be on plan. One of VF’s strengths, to my way of thinking, is their capacity (and financial ability) to take the longer term view while accommodating the quarterly requirements of a public company.
 
Third, VF projects a rigorous, consistent, but flexible management approach to running their businesses. That’s not to say that things don’t go wrong and they don’t make mistakes (though you generally don’t read about them in the earnings press release or conference call unless they’re whoopers). But it sounds like (and it’s sounded this way for a while) there’s a consensus as to goals and objectives among the management team and hopefully the employees that creates efficiencies. There is, at the risk of oversimplifying, institutional knowledge off what’s “right” and what’s “wrong” for the brands and the company. That is a powerful competitive advantage not easily come by.  I see this discipline, for example, in a balance sheet where inventory actually dropped a bit in spite of the sales increase.
 
The problem comes when that institutional consensus and momentum needs to be changed but is so stubbornly imbedded it won’t change. Then you become JC Penney. That’s just a general comment- not an expectation for VF.
 
Total revenues for the quarter rose 4.7% from $3.15 to $3.3 billion.  Net income rose from $381 million to $434 million.  Across all segments, international rose 7% to represent 40% of the total, and direct to consumer was up 14% to 40% of the total. $32 million of the revenue increase came from foreign currency translation. OAS, at $1.97 billion, represented 60% of the total. Jeans wear was an additional 23% of the total.
 
The gross margin increased 0.9% during the quarter from 46.7% to 47.6%. “The higher gross margins…reflect lower product costs and the continued shift in our revenue mix towards higher margin businesses, including Outdoor & Action Sports, international and direct-to-consumer.”
 
“Selling, general and administrative expenses as a percentage of total revenues increased 40 basis points during the third quarter…primarily resulting from increased investments in marketing and direct-to-consumer, partially offset by the leverage of operating expenses on higher revenues.”
 
OAS’s operating profit for the quarter was $421 million or 21% of revenues. It grew 1.94%. In last year’s quarter it was $413 million. Of that increase of $8.2 million, there was actually a $9.9 million currency translation gain. Ignoring the currency gain, OAS had an operating loss of $1.7 million for a quarter. Hmmmm.
 
They provide the following additional detail on the OAS results;
 
“The North Face ®, Vans ® and Timberland ® brands achieved global revenue growth of 3%, 16% and 2%, respectively. U.S. revenues for the third quarter increased 5% and were negatively impacted by retailer caution and a calendar shift for key retailers, which pushed approximately $40 million of shipments [mostly the North Face] from the third quarter into the fourth quarter of 2013. International revenues rose 8%, reflecting growth in Europe, Asia Pacific and the Americas (non-U.S.).”
 
The additional demand generation expenses and calendar shift had a meaningful impact and OAS results for the quarter would look better without them.
 
It would be particularly interesting to see what kind of revenues and operating income other brands in VF’s OAS segment were generating, but I guess there’s no chance of that. I’d settle for just a little information on Reef.
 
VF has growth in OAS and jeans, but its other segments are flat on a quarter over quarter basis. One quarter, of course, doesn’t mean much. It looks like OAS is running into some headwinds that have to do with a difficult economy, but then so are most other companies. There’s also the fact that their success with Vans, just as one example, means that the percentage increases they could generate in the past will be harder to come by. That’s just the law of large numbers.
 
Even given the reasonable and even positive explanations, I find the operating loss in OAS, excluding foreign exchange, interesting and I’ll be watching that in future quarters.

   

VF’s June 30 Quarter; Net Income Down, But Kind of Not Really.

VF’s net income fell 11% from $155.4 million in the quarter to $138.3 million in the same quarter last year. But last year’s quarter included a gain of $41.7 million from the sale of the John Varvatos brand that was booked under Other Income (Expense). In this year’s quarter, instead of a gain of $41.6 million, that line showed an expense of $1.5 million. Without that gain from the sale, net income would be up over last year’s quarter. 

Which is what you might expect with total revenues up 3.7% to $2.19 billion and the gross margin rising from 46.1% to 48.5%. As we’ve gotten used to, VF’s Outdoor & Action Sports segment (that includes Reef, Vans, The North Face and Timberland) led the way. Below is a table from the 10Q with the revenues and operating profit for each segment. And, while we’re at it, here’s the link to the 10Q for anybody who wants it. I always wonder if anybody but me ever looks at them.
 
 
As you can see, Outdoor & Action Sports (OAS) represented 49.7% of revenue and 37.3% of operating profit. The result in Jeanswear is impressive, delivering a bit more operating profit than OAS on only $612 million in revenue.
 
North Face revenue rose 5% in total. There was “…moderate growth in the wholesale sales, a 15% increase in the brand’s D2C [direct to consumer] business and a more than 20% increase in international sales.” In the Americas, wholesale revenue declined in the mid-single digit range. D2C there rose in the mid-teens.
 
Vans revenues grew 15%, with growth balanced between wholesale and D2C. Outside of the Americas, Van’s growth was over 20%. D2C growth was over 40%. They don’t tell us what Van’s growth was in the Americas, but obviously it was below 15% since outside of the Americas, it was 20%. I thought their take on Van’s apparel was interesting. “By taking classic action sports products the consumers are already connected to and adding performance benefits to them, such as weatherization, we’re equipping the Vans consumer with a whole new level of quality and technology in both warm and cold weather. This allows us to have more relevant, year-round offerings as we extend our reach into cold-weather months and cold-weather markets.”
 
We hear that Reef’s results were “solid,” but aren’t given any details. Timberland’s global revenues fell 3%. They were up low single digits in the Americas and down high single digits in the rest of the world. They expect revenue to be up for the year. We’re into VF’s second year of ownership of Timberland and to some extent it’s still a work in progress.
 
The 3.7% total revenue growth included 3% in the U.S. and 6% internationally including 10% in the Americas not counting the U.S. and 2% in Europe.
 
The gross margin improvement of 2.4% resulted from “…lower product costs and a favorable mix shift towards higher margin businesses.” Partly that’s due to growing D2C business. They don’t tell us anything about exactly how the lower product costs came to be. I wonder if there isn’t some benefit from the fall in cotton prices included there. I’d just like to know what part of it reflects good management and what reflects factors over which they have no control.
 
Inventory fell 3% even with the sales growth and certainly reflects good management. Inventory management is something they noted several times as an area of focus. They characterize their supply chain as a competitive weapon. “And as others are feeling the pinch of higher costs, we’re in many, many cases able to offset those costs through efficiencies in our own plants.”
 
They specifically connect inventory and supply chain management to marketing when they note that they are very satisfied with their retail inventories because it gives them “…the opportunity to really get our new product well positioned and upfront for the consumer as it starts to ship into our dealers…” That’s an important idea.
 
Marketing, administrative and general expenses rose 1% as a percentage of revenues. Half was for their D2C business and half for “…increased marketing investment in our brands.”
 
If VF has issues, and isn’t growing as fast as it used to, those issues are pretty much the same ones all retailers and brands in our industry have. Europe is weak, and VF especially calls out problems in Southern Europe. Hardly a surprise with unemployment rates north of 25%. The U.S. is recovering slowly, but consumers are cautious in their spending. “Retailers,” they note, “Are buying much closer to demand.”
 
But VF points out that their pension plans are almost fully funded (that’s a big deal, though you don’t hear about it much), they are paying down $400 million in Timberland related acquisition debt in the third quarter, and they will be out of the commercial paper market by year end. Their long term debt is down $400 million from a year ago. That leaves them with a balance sheet with which they can consistently pursue their strategy. Not everybody enjoys that. 

 

 

VF’s First Quarter: Outdoor and Action Sports Continue to Shine

VF’s March 31 10Q reported an overall 2.15% increase in revenues from $2.556 billion to $2.612 billion from the same quarter last year (Would have been 1% more, but they sold the John Varvatos brand).   But outdoor and action sports revenue was up 9.7% from $1.264 billion to $1.384 billion, representing 53% of total revenue for the quarter.  Here’s the link to the 10Q.

Just to remind you, the brands in the outdoor and action sports segment are Vans, The North Face, Timberland, Reef, Jansport, Kipling, Lucy, Smartwool, Eastpak, Eagle Creek and Napapijri. In 2013, The North Face and Vans are expected to be VF’s two largest brands by revenue, we learn in the conference call.
 
Total company revenues were up $55 million for the quarter. Outdoor and action sports revenue grew $120 million. Obviously, other segments were down to not up very much and action sports is carrying the load for VF right now. That, of course, is the whole concept behind having a diversified group of businesses.
 
The gross profit margin improved an impressive 2.4% to 48.1%. The improvement was across the whole company and “…reflects lower year-over-year product costs and the continued shift in our revenue mix towards higher margin businesses.” For the whole of 2013, however, they expect gross margin to be up only about 1%. The biggest improvement is in the jeanswear segment due to a big decline in cotton prices since last year’s quarter. 
 
Marketing, administrative and general expenses rose from $853 million to $899 million and as a percentage of sales from 33.4% to 34.4%. CFO Robert Shearer tells us that “Half of that increase came from out growing D2C [direct to consumer] business and the other half is due to higher levels of marketing spending.”
 
Operating income was up 14% from $314 million to $358 million. Outdoor and action sports reported what they call a coalition profit of $226.5 million, representing 53.5% of total coalition profits for the quarter of $423.6 million. Lower other expenses, including a lower tax rate, helped net income to increase from $215 million to $270 million.
 
The balance sheet is in good shape with a current ratio of 1.9 and a debt to total capital ratio of 28.4%, down from 36.1% a year ago. I was impressed to see a decline in inventory from $1.52 billion to $1.41 billion, though of course some of that decline is the result of the sale of the John Varvatos brand.
 
North Face revenues grew 6% globally, with a 25% increase quarter over quarter in the direct to consumer (D2C) business. There was a “slight” increase in wholesale business. Revenues in the Americas region were up 3%. They don’t break out the United States. Outside the Americas, the brand grew 11% “…with balanced strength on a D2C and wholesale basis.” In Europe, the increase was “modest.” Online was up more than 30%. Asian North Face revenues rose more than 40%. No idea what the base number is.
 
It’s really interesting to see VF take The North Face and evolve it from more of a technical mountain brand to a lifestyle, fashion brand. Obviously, that’s necessary if they expect it to continue its growth.
 
“Global revenue for Vans in the first quarter was up 25% with strong double-digit growth in all 3 regions, including both the wholesale and the D2C businesses.” In the Americas, it was more than 20%. Outdoor and action sports Group President Steve Rendle noted strong sell through in men’s apparel at the wholesale level. He said it was up over 50% year over year. I suspect that’s from a small base.
 
Outside of the Americas, Vans revenues grew 30% with D2C up more than 40%. Europe by itself was up 30% and Asia more than 20%.
 
Timberland revenues were up 2% for the quarter, including “double-digit growth” in D2C. Outside of the Americas, revenue was flat. VF acquired Timberland just over a year ago, and its integration is still a work in progress. I will be very interested to watch what VF does with Timberland. I wonder if there won’t be an evolution similar to what we’ve observed with The North Face.
 
We learn that “Reef had a very good quarter,” but that’s all we learn.
 
VF expects the direct to consumer business to represent 23% of total revenues in 2013 and expect to see it expand in the future. They plan to open about 160 stores this year after ending last year with “…roughly 1,100 doors across all of our brands across the world.”
 
One of the analysts asked, “And online, cannibalization with wholesale, is there any channel conflict there? I thought CEO Eric Wiseman’s answer was instructive, though he avoided directly addressing the issue of competing with the wholesale channel except to say “We try very hard to use this [D2C strategy I think he means] as a supportive strategy for our brands and to avoid cannibalization. And we actually work with our wholesale partners to where – they know where we’re going to put stores.”
 
I’m lacking some details here, but telling them where the new stores are going is hardly working with them.
 
Let me continue to quote his answer at some length:
 
“A great example of this is Vans, which in the last 2 or 3 years, has put up a lot of stores around New York City, around Boston, now around Philadelphia, where we didn’t have substantial distribution. And we just didn’t have the doors there that let the brand speak to the customers… And that’s true in markets in Europe and in Germany. It’s true in the U.K.”
 
“…didn’t have the doors there that let the brand speak to the customers…” he says.  Hmmm. So apparently they think that the other retailers that carry their brands in those areas weren’t doing a very good job? Or at least they believe they can do a better job themselves. 
 
He continues:
 
 “That’s how we look at it. And we have so much runway, because we ended last year with roughly 1,100 doors across all of our brands across the world. So we’re so relatively undeveloped that we still see lots of runway before the cannibalization thing comes into play. The e-commerce thing is a tricky thing. Because we don’t know if that’s — we can’t really say where those customers are coming from, whether they’re new customers to the brand, whether they used to shop in our stores or somebody else’s stores. What we do know is we have to create a compelling way for our consumers to engage with our brands from their phones, from whatever devices they have, and we have to let them shop while they’re there.”
 
Bottom line is we can expect more stores from VF and they’d like to perpetuate the idea that this is somehow good for other retailers that carry their brands. Like all of the rest of us, they are unclear as to if and how online sales relates to and impacts, for better or worse, brick and mortar sales.
 
A couple of weeks ago at the IASC Skateboard Industry Conference, I made a presentation suggesting, among other things, that distribution was much more complex that it used to be and that deciding who and where to sell was much more critical to your brand positioning. I further said that if you can’t get big sales increases, you can still hope to improve your operating income through recognizing the links between how you operate and manage your inventory and your marketing. I also noted that being more purposeful with your distribution and controlling consumer touch points had to potential to reduce expenses and improve margins and brand positioning. 
 
Effectively, VF is implementing most of the strategy I suggested. If they think it’s a good idea, you should at least look into it for your brand or store.        

 

 

VF’s Strategy; Why it is Consistent with the Competitive Environment

VF filed its 10K annual report with the SEC three days ago, so I’ve been able to get a more complete picture of their performance for the year and quarter. You can see that report here. As you probably know, VF is a large consumer conglomerate that owns 30 brands including Vans, The North Face, Reef and Timberland which are part of its Outdoor and Action Sports segment. Its other segments include Jeanswear, Imagewear, Sportswear and Contemporary Brands. We’ll talk about the general strategy and focus on Outdoor and Action Sports. 

Pieces of the Strategy
 
Revenue for the year rose 15% as reported from $9.46 to $10.88 billion. Not following my usual process, I want to jump right to the balance sheet and report that inventory fell 6.8% over the year from $1.45 to $1.35 billion. Partly what’s going on here is that they are getting their Timberland acquisition (purchased in September of 2011) under control. But typically, you’d expect inventory to rise some with sales and when it’s doesn’t, it’s a good thing.
 
Now let’s jump to page 1 of the 10K to see what their broad strategy is:
 
“VF’s strategy is to continue transforming our mix of business to include more lifestyle brands. Lifestyle brands connect closely with consumers because they are aspirational and inspirational; they reflect consumers’ specific activities and interests. Lifestyle brands generally extend across multiple product categories and have higher than average gross margins.”
 
Connection with consumer and higher margins. No wonder they like outdoor and action sports.
 
Meanwhile, over in the conference call, VF Chairman, Chief Executive Officer, President, Member of the Finance Committee and for all I know Czar of all the Russians Eric Wiseman talks about their other focuses.
 
“…an obsessive focus on continuously improving our operational capabilities to drive growth and strong consistent returns to our shareholders; and finally, a highly efficient supply chain that includes owned and sourced manufacturing, which gives us unparalleled structural advantages, including product innovation, speed to market, low cost and outstanding quality. Individually, any one of these strengths would be an enviable asset for any company to have. Yet together, in concert, they’re at the center VF’s DNA and what allows us to be so successful.”
 
Keeping the supply chain efficient is no simple task. From the 10K:
 
“On an annual basis, VF sources or produces approximately 450 million units spread across 36 brands. VF operates 29 manufacturing facilities and utilizes approximately 1,900 contractor manufacturing facilities in 60 countries. We operate 29 distribution centers and 1,129 retail stores. Managing this complexity is made possible by the use of a network of information systems for product development, forecasting, order management and warehouse management, attached to our core enterprise resource management platforms.”
 
I don’t want to put VF on a pedestal here. There’s a never a section in the press release, conference call or SEC filings called “Places where we really, really screwed up.” It does not always go smoothly. 
 
Nor is it ever finished. I wouldn’t be surprised if a big piece of CEO Wiseman’s job was to make sure the whole organization is thinking about incremental ways to make things better. Everybody should be empowered to ask, “If we combine production for these two brands, can we save $0.03 a garment?” “If we make it at a factory we own, will the faster turnaround time mean lower total inventory that offsets the higher cost per piece?”
 
Sales increases are swell, but it’s nice to have ways to improve your profitability by increasing gross margin dollars or controlling expenses if they aren’t easy to come by. And it’s good to have a balance sheet that lets you invests in efficiencies- especially if your competition can’t.
 
VF is trying to do what I’ve been arguing in favor of for years. No wonder I like them.
 
The Outdoor and Action Sports Segment
 
This segment generated $5.87 billion, or 54%, of VF’s revenues for the year. It had an operating profit of $1.02 billion, representing 58% of total operating profit for VF, and an operating margin of 17.4% (higher than other segments with Jeanswear being second at 16.7%). That margin is down from 19.9% in 2010 and18.2% in 2011. The decline is largely due to Timberland.
 
Segment revenues grew 28.6% from $4.56 billion the previous year. Jeanswear is second at $2.79 billion representing 26% of total revenue. It was up only 2.1%. Growth of 6.3% by Sportswear was the second fastest segment growth.
 
But there’s a caveat. Of that 29% growth, 19% was the result of the Timberland acquisition and only 10% was organic (from the existing brands). But 10% organic growth is way better than any of the other segments did, except for “other” which grew 12.5% but was only $125.5 million in revenue for the year. 
 
The North Face is the largest brand in the segment, with Timberland second and Vans third by revenue. There are 100 VF operated North Face stores worldwide. Timberland has 200 stores and Vans 350.
 
Domestically, the whole segment was up 21% but 12% of that came from Timberland. International revenue was up 37% with Timberland representing 26%.
 
The North Face and Vans grew globally 9% and 23% respectively in 2012. Their direct to consumer business, including new store openings, comparable store sales and online, increased 13% and 18% respectively. In 2013, Van’s revenues are expected to be up 20% and The North Face up in the “high single-digit” range. Timberland’s revenues are projected to be up in the “mid-single-digits.”
 
Outside of the Americas, Vans revenue growth was in excess of 30% in constant dollars. It was up 60% in constant dollars in Europe and 20% in Asia. Direct to consumer was “a big part” of this growth.
 
We also learn that Reef’s revenues were up 17%, though we aren’t told anything about what its total revenues are. This is significant only because they haven’t said anything about Reef in the past probably because there was no good news to report. 
 
VF’s total capital expenditures in 2012 were $252 million. Of that total, $156 million or 62% were in Outdoor and Action Sports.
 
Some Overall Numbers
 
VF’s $10.9 billion of 2012 revenue generated $1.09 billion in net income. They spent $585 million on advertising. International revenue was 23% of total. 5% was organic and 18% due to Timberland. Direct to consumer revenue rose 25%, but 15% of that was Timberland. It accounted for 21% of total revenues. They opened 141 retail stores in 2012 and expect to open 160 in 2013. Gross margin improved from 45.8% to 46.5% “…primarily due to the continued shift in the revenue mix towards higher margin businesses, including Outdoor & Action Sports, international and direct-to-consumer.” Hmmm. Sort of seems to leave out North American wholesale business. 
 
For the last quarter of the year, VF’s revenues were $3.03 billion and it earned a net profit of $334 million. No details provided.
 
Okay, don’t stop reading here just because I’m going to talk about pension accounting. This is important. VF made a $100 million voluntary contribution to its pension plan during the year. What’s going on in the world of pensions? Not just at VF. 
 
How much you need to contribute to a pension plan obviously depends on a whole bunch of assumptions involving how many people will get pensions for how long and how much you’ll earn on the money invested in the plan. In 2012, VF assumption was that the rate of return on its pension assets would be 7.5%. They’ve reduced that to 7% in 2013. At the same time, they’ve “…altered the investment mix to improve investment performance.” I won’t go into the details, but from their description, I’d conclude they’ve increased the level of risk in their portfolio to try and earn that lower targeted return.
 
There’s a lot of this going on. Company and government pension plans have found themselves underfunded at least partly because they’ve been stubbornly unrealistic for years about what they could expect to earn on their pension assets. I think they’re still unrealistic. If they reduce the expected rate of return, the required contributions to the plans go up.
 
This is going to be messy. Not for VF necessarily, because they earn a lot of money and can afford to contribute to their pension plan, though obviously it will have some impact on the earnings per share. You’ve already seen some governments have problems in this area. Just be aware is all I’m saying.
 
The Evolution of VF
The Outdoor & Action Sports segment is presently the driver of VF’s success. They’ve acknowledged that in the description of their strategy quoted above that describes the kinds of brands they want to own. If they can improve Timberland’s performance, this will be even truer. As a company, they’ve changed their focus through buying and selling of brands. I don’t expect that to change. They say it won’t. They sold one brand last year. If Outdoor & Action Sports continues to offer the growth and returns it’s getting now, and brands in other segments can’t offer similar ones, I would expect to see further buying and selling of brands by VF.
 

 

A Comment About a Billabong Deal and a Chance to Place Your Bet

I was a bit surprised when VF’s preliminary bid for Billabong came as late as it did, and I was also intrigued by the partnership with Altamont. Why, I wondered, didn’t VF just buy Billabong itself? 

A couple of possible answers occurred to me. The first was that somehow they couldn’t afford it. But a review of their most recent balance sheet made me think that wasn’t the case. However, I did recall that they borrowed a bunch of money to pay for Timberland and had committed in their conference calls to reduce debt. Even though they could borrow the money to purchase Billabong, it might not have been a comfortable place to go for either VF or the analyst community that follows them.
 
Second of course is the fact that VF is primarily interested in the Billabong brand, and it’s a lot easier to just acquire that brand rather than acquire the whole thing and sell off the other brands. Here’s how they put it in the press release:
 
“VF’s primary interest in the transaction is in the Billabong® brand. This interest is consistent with VF’s stated intent to pursue acquisitions, particularly in the Action Sports category, to continue to build shareholder value. Altamont’s interest lies in acquiring Billabong’s other brands and related assets, and is predicated on the firm’s mandate to invest in situations where it can provide strategic and operational support to build business success stories.”
 
When it says Altamont’s interest is in “other brands and related assets,” I wonder what that means. Do the Billabong stores go with the Billabong brand? I guess Altamont would get West 49, though of course I don’t know that.
 
If a deal should be struck, Billabong shareholders would just get money, and they’d be done with it. But VF and Altamont would be the ones who would put up that money, and you have to wonder how they’d decide who put up how much.
 
They would have to agree on a value to the brands or assets being acquired by each of them. That certainly can’t be done before due diligence. How do you decide how much RVCA, for example, is worth before you know how much they are selling and have seen an income statement?
 
But even after due diligence it could be a bit of a hard thing to do. Valuation almost always has an element of subjectivity to it, and one might suspect that both VF and Altamont would want the assets their partner is taking to be valued higher so their partner’s piece of the purchase price was higher. Value also has to do with the future prospects of a brand and reasonable people can disagree on that.
 
Altamont is more what we call a financial buyer. That is, their valuation of an asset is based on what financial return they can expect. VF is more of a strategic buyer in the case of Billabong. By that I mean they look at the Billabong brand and look at how they can improve its operations and results by bringing their own strengths in, for example, sourcing to bear on it. They look for and expect synergies in other words. Read VF’s description of how they are managing their newest acquisition Timberland to improve its performance.
 
So VF might tend to come to a higher value for the Billabong brand than Altamont would, but it would be in their interest to convince Altamont that the value was lower. 
 
Not only, then, do VF and Billabong have a bias in favor of valuing the assets their partner is buying higher (so their own cost is lower), but it may not be easy to agree on those values because of differing perspectives. I imagine there would be ongoing discussions about this as due diligence proceeds. They really wouldn’t want to make a deal to acquire Billabong then find out that they couldn’t agree among themselves on who would pay how much.
 
I am sure you all realize I am speculating here, but I thought it might be valuable to think about the process that has to occur. But if you’re really interested in speculating, you can go to this Australian betting site and place your wager on whether Paul Naude and his group or VF and Altamont will snag Billabong. All bets are off if neither one buys it.

 

 

VF’s Quarter. Thank God for 10Qs (What an odd thing to say)

VF had a quarter in which total revenues rose 14.3% from $2.73 billion to $3.12 billion. Net income was up 26.8% to $381 million. I don’t find it as clear cut as that sounds, and the way to approach analyzing it is to go right to Note G- Business Segment Information in VF’s 10Q and reproduce part of it for our discussion. So here it is.

 

VF refers to its business segments as coalitions. In the chart above you see the revenue and operating profit each coalition produced during the quarter. Total company revenue rose by $398 million. The Outdoor & Action Sports coalition, which includes Vans, The North Face, Timberland and Reef, grew by $415 million, or 104% of total revenue growth.
 
Without the growth in Outdoor & Action Sports, VF’s total revenue declined very slightly.
 
Total coalition profit (profit before interest, taxes and corporate overhead which I call operating profit) grew by $111 million. Outdoor & Action Sports operating profit grew by $92 million to $413 million, representing 83% of operating profit growth and 67% of total operating profit. Outdoor and action sports revenue was $1.85 billion, up 29% from $1.44 billion in the same quarter last year. It represented 59% of total revenues for the quarter.
 
I guess we better dig into the Outdoor & Action Sports results as they appear to be kind of important to VF’s overall results and because they are what we’re most interested in.
 
First, let’s remember that Timberland, which is part of that segment, was acquired by VF on September 13, 2011. So its results were included in VF’s numbers for only a few weeks in last year’s quarter, but in the whole quarter this year. 
 
In last year’s quarter, “Timberland contributed $163.6 million of revenues and $11.0 million of pretax income…” In this year’s September 30 quarter, it contributed $499.1 million of revenues and $55.8 million of pretax income.
 
Let’s adjust the Outdoor and Action Sports segment for those revenue numbers. Without Timberland last year’s quarterly revenues would have been $1.27 billion. This year they would have been $1.35 million. That is growth of 6.3% in revenue for Outdoor & Action Sports.
 
I’m not going to try and do that adjustment for operating income, because the operating income number I have for Outdoor & Action Sports is before interest, taxes and corporate overhead, but the number they give for Timberland’s quarterly impact is just pretax and I’m afraid I’d be comparing apples and oranges.
 
The North Face and Vans grew 5% and 21% during the quarter respectively. Those brand’s direct to consumer businesses grew 10% and 18% respectively. Outdoor & Action Sports U.S. revenues increased 26% with 16% of that increase coming from Timberland. International revenues for the coalition rose 32%, but 30% came from Timberland. European revenues rose 24%, but fell 6% excluding Timberland.
 
We get some further interesting comments on those brands in the conference call. The North Face’s revenue growth in the Americas was in the high single digits. It experienced mid single digit declines in revenue in Europe for the quarter, though they say the brand continues to take market share there. If their revenues can decline, but they can still take market share, things must be pretty hard in Europe.
 
They also note that The North Face’s constant currency revenue were up 60% in Asia. No idea what size numbers we’re talking about.
 
Vans grew at a mid-teens rate in the U.S. Constant currency revenues were up more than 45% in Europe and more than 40% in Asia. Both Vans and North Face are increasing their marketing investments.
 
Total Timberland revenues actually “…declined slightly in the third quarter.” The growth in Timberland we talked about before was for the period when VF owned them. Timberland was obviously generating revenues before the acquisition. I gather it was down more (“moderately”) in the Americas due to the hangover in inventory from last year’s warm winter. It was flat in constant dollars in Europe. There’s further discussion about how they are still integrating Timberland into their business model with expected improvements in performance.
 
The company’s overall revenue growth of 14.3% came mostly from Timberland. Only 2% of that growth was organic. Direct to consumer revenue grew 28%, with 19% coming from Timberland. Direct to consumer was 18% of total revenue.
 
Gross margin grew nicely, from 45.3% to 46.7%. “Gross margin increased in the third quarter in nearly every coalition due to a greater percentage of revenues from higher gross margin businesses and the impact of lower product costs. The increase in the first nine months of 2012 also reflects the continued shift in the revenue mix towards higher margin businesses, including the Outdoor & Action Sports, international and direct-to-consumer businesses.”
 
Strategy
 
The first thing I’d note is CEO Eric Wiseman’s conference call comment that “We’re seeing some slowing in the U.S. economy, increasingly challenging conditions in Europe and slowing growth in China.” Those issues aren’t unique to VF.
 
Let’s go on and quote him again. “As you know, we’re constantly looking at the shape of our portfolio because we believe that the diversity of our portfolio is our strength.” What that means is that they will sell businesses that don’t meet their expectations and look to buy ones that do. And while, “We’re pretty focused on the integration of Timberland this year for all the appropriate reasons…acquisitions are our priority, and we’re beginning to look into 2013 about what we might do.”
 
Right now, Vans appears to be the best performing sizeable brand VF owns, and you know that performance has their attention. They are trying to create some of Van’s attributes at The North Face and I expect they will do the same thing with Timberland once it’s fully integrated.
 
Given the results they are getting from Vans and expect from The North Face and Timberland, I wonder if the sale of some of their brands that aren’t performing as well isn’t in the cards.
 
It used to be hard to be a big company and be “cool” in this industry. That doesn’t seem to be the case anymore. Either the formula has changed or they’ve figured it out. Or maybe it doesn’t matter like it used to. I just think the lines between action sports, youth culture, and fashion have blurred to such an extent that it’s harder to keep a specific identity that really differentiates you.            

 

 

VF’s Quarterly Results and Strategy: They Do Love Outdoor and Action Sports

VF’s reported revenues rising 16.4% in the quarter ended June 30 compared to the same quarter last year. Net income was up 20% from $129.4 million to $155.3 million. As you look at those headline numbers, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.

 
First, the Timberland acquisition closed on September 13, 2011 so this is the first June quarter where it’s been included, and it was the largest acquisition VF has made. They paid $2.3 billion for Timberland. It’s part of VF’s outdoor and action sports group. During the quarter ended June 30, it contributed revenue of $239.4 million and reported a loss (as expected- apparently that’s just how the second quarter is for Timberland) of $37.2 million.
 
Second, on April 30th VF sold the John Varvatos brand and generated a pretax gain on the sale of $41.7 million. The sale of that brand reduced revenues in the quarter by $14.4 million.
 
Organic revenue growth (growth from brands they already owned) was $125.1 million, or 3%. International business grew 33%, representing about a third of total revenues. 26% of that growth came from Timberland. Direct to consumer revenues were up 37% in the quarter (29% from Timberland) and are 21% of total revenue. VF has opened 58 new stores so far this year, and expects to have opened 130 by year end. Comparable store sales in the stores VF operates were up mid-single digits in the second quarter.
 
Without the Timberland related acquisition expenses of $3.4 million and the gain on the sale of John Varvatos, net income would have been $122.9 million instead of the $155 million reported. Operating income, without the Timberland loss and related acquisition costs, would have been $193.7 million instead of the reported $164 million. By the way, my thanks to whoever it is at VF that presents this information in a fairly easy to figure out format. Oh- and here’s the link to the 10Q.
 
Before we delve deeper into those numbers, I want to remind everybody that back in the middle of June, VF did an investors’ day presentation just on Vans.   You can listen to the whole presentation here, and I suggest you do if you haven’t already.
 
When I wrote about Nike’s annual report a couple of weeks ago, I related it to a book called The New Rules of Retail. VF is discussed in that book as an example of a company that is creating neurological connectivity with its customers, using preemptive distribution, and controlling its value chain to compete as called for and explained in the book. You can see that all over the Vans presentation.
 
So why does VF love its outdoor and action sports segment? It has something to do with the fact that it generated 49% of its total revenues, including Timberland, during the quarter. Its next largest segment is jeanswear, which generated $594 million, down from $613 million in the quarter last year. Those two segments, then, were 76.3% of the quarter’s revenues and they generated 76.4% of operating profit.
 
VF’s overall operating margin was 7.9%, down from 10.3% in last year’s second quarter. 2.3% of that decline was the result of Timberland’s loss in the quarter.   
 
Of the $125 million in organic growth in the quarter referred to above, $113.4 million came from outdoor and action sports. That’s a 12% increase; 16% in constant dollars. Organic growth in operating profit for the whole company during the quarter was $18.4 million. In the outdoor and action sports segment alone it was $25.5 million, so that segment made up for the poorer performance of some others.
 
The North Face is part of outdoor and action sports. Its revenues in the quarter were up 14% (16% in constant currency) and it’s direct to consumer (DC) grew 9%. For the whole year, they expect The North Face to approach $2 billion in revenue.
 
VF is targeting Vans revenue of $2.2 billion by 2016. Revenues in the quarter were up 25% (29% in constant currency). Its DC business rose 18%.
 
Timberland revenues were up “…slightly on a constant dollar basis…” However, VF management sounds positively giddy as they talk about the opportunities in product, operations, and marketing they have with Timberland. It will be rolling out an apparel line in the near future.
 
One analyst asked about the impact of cleaning up Timberland’s distribution. Group President of Outdoor and Action Sports Steve Rendle answered it this way:
 
“As we look to right size that business, we are closing some of the distribution. Simultaneously, we’re rightsizing the product segmentation strategy, getting the right products in the right channels.”
 
Read that again and go listen to their plans for Vans. Read about what they are doing with The North Face in the conference call. You can detect in the conference call (see it here) a certain consistency across Vans, The North Face, and Timberland in terms of product development and the approach to the consumer. I would think there might be some real opportunities there as the brands come at overlapping customer groups from different perspectives.
 
Okay, let’s get back to VF’s overall financial results. Gross margin increased to 46.1% from 45.9% in last year’s quarter. This was “…due to a greater percentage of revenues from higher gross margin businesses, including the Outdoor & Action Sports, international and retail businesses, as well as an improvement of gross margin in our Jeanswear Americas business which reflects increased pricing compared to the prior period.”
 
Marketing, administrative and general expenses as a percent of sales rose from 35.7% in last year’s quarter to 38.4% this year. 2.4% of that increase was the result of the Timberland acquisition as it had higher expense ratios than the rest of VF. I won’t be surprised to see those Timberland ratios come down.
 
0.4% of the increase came from higher domestic pension expense. VF has a defined benefit plan. Those have to be funded based on an actuarial assessment of the number of people who will retire, when they will retire, how long they will live and what the assets in the plan are projected to earn. These days, it’s a bit hard to assume your pension assets will earn 7% and this is requiring some corporations (not just VF) to contribute more to their plans. That reduces net income.
 
Interest expense rose $7.6 million in the quarter because they borrowed money to pay for part of the Timberland acquisition.
 
The balance sheet was inevitably a bit weaker compared to a year ago after they borrowed money to buy Timberland. Long term debt is up $900 million. The current ratio fell from 3 to 1 to 1.9 to one and debt to total capital rose from 18.7% to 35.7%. Inventories rose 22.2% from $1.286 billion to $1.57 billion year over year. However, $246 million of that increase is the result of the Timberland acquisition. Excluding that, the increase was just 3%.
 
Receivables rose from $889 million to $1.03 billion over the year, but $121.7 million of that increase was Timberland. I should note that VF has an agreement with a financial institution to sell certain of its receivables on a nonrecourse basis. VF still manages and collects the sold receivables, but if they are ultimately uncollectable, it’s not VF’s problem. This sale of receivables reduced the accounts receivable on VF’s balance sheet by $135.5 million at June 30, 2012.
 
VF is the third company I’ve written about recently (Skullcandy and Nike being the other two) who seem to be responding to the changing retail/wholesale dynamic in ways that have some similarities. Those responses are consistent with the conditions described in The New Rules of Retail and that book’s prescription for success.
 
I expect VF to do some good things with Timberland. And I’ll be interested to see how VF manages the other brands in its portfolio if outdoor and action sports continues to grow and perform at such a high level. 

 

 

VF’s Quarter and some Broader Considerations

As I’ve told you, I’m not so much interested in analyzing the financial statements of big multi-brand corporations like VF (or Nike, or PPR, or Jarden, etc.) but of seeing, to the extent we can, what they are doing in the action sports/youth culture space (or whatever industry we’re in). Mostly I don’t think you want to hear about Footnote F on pension plan contributions but might be interested in any strategic implications or trends I can glean.

To be honest, I do actually want to mention Footnote F briefly. VF noted one of the reasons their operating expenses as a percentage of sales rose was due to an increased pension expense. Companies with pension plans (as opposed to 401Ks) have to fund those plans based on complex actuarial calculations. When returns don’t meet what they project, they have to put more money into the pension plan, and that’s an expense. 

Continuing to do what I said I wasn’t going to do, VF noted that their gross margin for the March 31 quarter benefitted by 0.4% by a “…change in inventory accounting policy that did not recur in 2012.”
 
You’ll be pleased to learn I’m not going to go into that in detail. The point is that this arcane accounting stuff does matter. As much as we’d like it to go away, it’s hard to evaluate results without considering it.
 
VF’s sales for the quarter were $2.53 billion, up 31% from $1.94 billion in the same quarter last year. 12% of that growth was organic (from brands they already owned) and the rest was from the acquisition of Timberland. Direct to consumer business is 19% of the total, and international is 45%.
 
Net income for the quarter was $215 million, up from $201 million last year. Their balance sheet is just fine and I think with that we can move on to discussing their outdoor and action sports coalition (“the coalition”) where Vans, The North Face, Reef, and now Timberland reside.
 
The big news is that we got an actual number on Reef! Its revenues grew by 11% during the quarter. It’s not like that’s momentous or anything, but as it’s been many quarters since VF has offered any number on Reef at all, I take it as a sign that revenues were not necessarily increasing in prior quarters and now they are.
 
For the quarter, the coalition had revenues of $1.26 billion and generated an operating profit of $201 million. That’s 49.4% of the quarter’s revenues and 55.5% of its operating income. In the quarter last year the coalition’s revenue was $788 million. Of that growth of $472 million, $356 million came from the Timberland acquisition and $134.5 million was organic.
 
VF’s overall gross margin was down 1.5% during the quarter, but we’re told it was up in the coalition, though we aren’t told how much. The North Face and Vans revenues grew 14% and 25% respectively. Their direct to consumer business rose 18% and 21% respectively. The North Face’s annual sales are approaching $2 billion. Vans has passed $1 billion.
 
In the Americas, the coalition’s revenues grew 41%, with 29% of that being from Timberland. International revenues rose 84% in the quarter, with 65% of that increase from the Timberland acquisition. Ignoring the Timberland acquisition, the coalition’s operating margin grew from 18.3% in the quarter last year to 20.3% in this year’s quarter. You can see why they like this piece of their business.
With those numbers in mind, let’s list VF’s overall strategies. According to CEO Eric Wiseman, they are:
 
-Building lifestyle brands.
 
-Growing internationally.
 
-Serving consumers directly through our growing base of retail and online stores.
 
-Win with winning retailers. 80% of VF’s business is wholesale. They expect direct to consumer to top out at about 22%.
 
-Enable VF’s future. They “…recognize the importance of consistent investments behind a best-in-class infrastructure, including talent development, supply chain capabilities and technology.” The company’s capital expenditures in 2012 are expected to be $375 million.
 
-Lead in innovation. Their definition of innovation is “…something new that creates value.”
 
 With that as background, let’s consider the specific strategies for The North Face and Vans. Consistent with what CEO Wiseman said, coalition President Steve Rendle describes The North Face strategy as follows:
 
“The North Face key strategies in 2012 include delivering the most important, innovative outdoor products in the industry, leveraging our brand authenticity to connect more deeply with active consumers, providing a premium retail experience both in our owned stores and wholesale partner’s locations and growing our international business.”
 
He goes on to discuss how they connect with consumers:
 
“Centered on bold, athlete-tested, expedition-proven storytelling campaigns, we continue to invest in expeditions and events that define our brand through the eyes of the hard core user.”
 
Gee, some of these strategies sound vaguely familiar. If I were to summarize, I’d say that VF is busily turning The North Face into a $2 billion and growing action sports brand. 
 
Just one other thing on The North Face. They also note they are “…implementing a global product line rationalization program with the goal of reducing SKUS by 15% by fall of 2013.” I think every brand and retailer can benefit by reviewing their stocking units and figuring out which ones they can really do without.
 
Essentially they are pursuing the same strategies with Vans, though of course it’s already a solid action sports brand.
 
Timberland is apparently introducing apparel next year. It will be interesting to see how that’s positioned.
 
At some level, I’m starting to ask what the difference between “outdoor” and “action sports” is. Core action sports brands have often had trouble growing out into the broader market because they didn’t understand fashion or didn’t have the financial resources or infrastructure. But those brands expanded distribution enough that brands like The North Face (and maybe Timberland?) can approach it from the outside.
 
Maybe the thought for today is that it’s necessary for you to spend some time carefully defining what market you’re in. That’s hardly a new idea. But there was a time when you could say “action sports” and kind of know who your customers and competitors were. I’m not sure that’s true anymore.

 

 

VF’s Quarterly Result; Why is it We Bother?

We review VF’s results because they own brands we are interested in. Same reason we review Jarden’s, PPR’s and other companies. But we rarely get much information on those brands because they are part of a larger segment by which the corporations represents its business. And, in the case of VF, we get literally nothing on Reef because it’s so small that its contribution to the action sports and outdoor segment isn’t significant I guess.

This is, in part, the inevitable result of consolidation. But if we’re paying attention to these conglomerates, in spite of the lack of information on brands we’re interested in, there must be a reason.

It’s because for most brands in our industry, the focus is on youth culture or fashion or some other word as much or more than the core action sports market. That much larger target is where most of the customers are. We use terms like “consolidation” and “vertical integration” benignly, and it’s a little too easy to forget just how hard these trends make it for specialty shops, smaller companies, and brands that are strictly wholesale. I don’t say that critically of companies that are consolidating and integrating, but as a reminder to those of you who aren’t of what your competitive environment looks like.
 
Let’s get to the specifics of VF and then I’ll point you to something you might want to read.
 
Revenues for the quarter ended September 30 were $2.75 billion, up 23% from the same quarter last year. However, the acquisition of Timberland was completed during the quarter and it contributed $163.6 million, or 7%, of the increase to revenues. Direct to consumer and international grew 15% and 29% organically (excluding acquisitions) during the quarter. Including acquisitions, the numbers were 21% and 44%. A weaker U.S. dollar increased the quarter’s revenues by $56 million.
 
I guess what we’re most interested in is VF’s outdoor and action sports group that contributed, including Timberland, $1.437 million in revenue, up 37% from $1.045 billion in the prior year’s quarter. This is the segment that includes Vans and Reef, as well as The North Face and others. It’s 52% of VF’s revenues for the quarter. The next closest segment, of their six, is about half that. Profit from the action sports and outdoor segment before interest, taxes and common corporate expenses was $321 million, up from $248 million in the previous year’s quarter. That’s 65% of the quarter’s profit before the expenses I mentioned. No wonder VF likes action sports and outdoors.
 
Action sports and outdoor business in the Americas rose 21% in the quarter (13% excluding Timberland). Worldwide, The North Face and Vans grew 22% and 25% respectively. In Asia, the segment’s revenues were up 81% (50% excluding Timberland). “Direct-to-consumer revenues in this coalition [segment] rose 31% in the 2011 quarter (20% excluding Timberland), with increases of 29% and 18% in The North Face® and Vans® direct-to-consumer businesses, respectively. Direct-to-consumer revenue growth was driven by new store openings, comp store revenue growth and an expanding e-commerce business.”
 
The gross margin percentage fell from 46.5% to 45.3%. There was a “…1.8% net impact from higher product costs that were not fully offset by pricing increases. This decline was partially offset by a greater percentage of revenues coming from higher gross margin businesses, including the Outdoor & Action Sports, international, and direct-to-consumer businesses.” Not so different than a lot of other companies.
 
Having read that quote, anybody want to speculate on where VF if going to focus its attention?
 
Net income was $301 million, up from $243 million in the same quarter the previous year. Timberland contributed $8 million of the increase.
 
The balance sheet took a bit of a hit because VF borrowed money to pay for Timberland. The current ratio fell from 2.5 a year ago to 1.5. Debt to total capital was up from 20.1% to 40.1%. Short term borrowings rose from $49 million a year ago to $1.145 billion at the end of this quarter. They expect the short term borrowings to be repaid by year end. They also borrowed $900 million in longer term debt for the acquisition. $400 million matures in August of 2013. $500 million isn’t due until 2021.
 
Receivables grew 40% from $1.1 billion to $1.548 billion. But $315 million of that was the result of the Timberland acquisition. As you think about inventory levels for VF and other companies, remember that higher prices mean higher inventory even when the units don’t change. VF says 9% of its inventory growth was the result of higher prices.
 
One of the analysts in the conference call pointed out that Timberland did some of its own manufacturing, and asked if VF might see this as an opportunity to make some more of its other products as well. It’s something it sounds like they will look into, but it’s too soon after the deal closing for them to be specific was the response. 

As you have probably concluded for yourself, VF is doing just fine.  Rather than think up some clever closing paragraph, I thought I’d offer you a link to an article that Rob Valerio of business consultants CPO sent me on the expansion strategies of retail CEOs.  It doesn’t refer just to our industry, and VF is much more than a retailer.  Still, you’ll see certain continuity between the strategies retailers in general are using and what VF and others in our industry are doing.  As I said at the start of this article, independent retailers, small brands, and brands that are strictly wholesalers are being pressured by bigger, sophisticated companies.  You may not be able to do what VF does, but you can look at some of these strategies and pick a few places where you can perhaps do something new, different or better.