Notes from the Skateboard Industry Conference

It was, by any measure, a successful conference and IASC did a great job putting it on. Attendance, at around 95, was up over last year, which was also up over the first year of the conference the previous year. The attendees were the senior people from the right companies. The food continues to improve (breakfast still needs work) and the skating at Woodward West is outstanding. Getting there from Seattle is a bit of an effort and I made the drive from Burbank this time without getting lost (the first year, the sign that said “Paved road ends in two miles” sort of threw me.

IASC kept us busy for two full days on interesting topics that included a key note address by George Powell, social media and action sports, why athletes go broke (I’m still sorry I missed the chance to invest in the rafts that inflate under furniture to protect them from flood waters), ethical sourcing, Shop- Eat- Surf’s Tiffany Montgomery’s interview with former DC Shoes CEO Nick Adcock, and a retail discussion.

Angelo Ponzi from Board Trac was given the thankless task of making the last presentation that summed up everything that had been discussed during the whole conference. Word is he pulled it off and people wanted more time with him, but I had to leave for the airport and didn’t see it. That’s representative of why it can suck to be the last presenter.
 
I talked before Angelo, focusing on the action of some major brands (see my most recent articles on Billabong, Zumiez and Genesco on my web site) with regards to their efforts in retail and relationships with core shops.   I suggested that the decline in the number of core shops, the financial model that needs to be pursued given the economic conditions (lower sales growth, focus on gross margin dollars), and the evolving retail environment suggested some pretty obvious steps that skate companies needed to take to be competitive. I spent a few minutes discussing those steps.
 
I guess if I’d been planning the agenda I would have scheduled discussions that focused more on those steps. They include effective use of your management information systems, focusing on inventory turns- not just gross margin percentages, distribution (“The Industry” is not going to “fix” distribution, but most companies can manage their distribution better if they have better information), and the role of the existing skate distributors. Those topics are clearly not as much fun, but they might be more important to the long term health of the industry.
 
Skateboarding as a sport/activity/lifestyle- whatever you want to call it- seems to be doing just fine, though the individual companies have challenges. I thought skate’s problems and strengths were best framed by a brief exchange between an executive from a major retailer and a hard goods brand owner. The retailer bemoaned team riders showing up drunk,  showing up late or not at all, and not interacting with the kids. The owner said, more or less, “That’s the way it is. If you don’t like it, don’t invite them back.”
 
I’ve never managed skateboard team riders, but I have had some dealing with snowboard team riders. What I’ve always said is that I’d rather have the kid who was personable, professional, and showed up on time (sober) even if he wasn’t quite as good as some other rider so I probably tend to come down on the retailer’s side on this one. Yet the brand owner (a former pro skater like most of them) was defending something that is important about skateboarding and that has allowed it to maintain its edge and underground image even as it has mainstreamed.
 
That edge and image were also handily maintained by something called “hall bowling” the first night and by a report of somebody riding a rollaway bed down the driveway the second. That the bed was ridden was denied in the morning (but there was a mattress under a tree). But as I was printing out my boarding pass I did hear the lodge staff discussing how much to charge for a rollaway and wondering why anybody would allow this group an open bar. I of course, being the sober serious fellow I am, had nothing to do with any of this. Except for the part where I woke up at 4:30 to find that somebody had turned off the power to my room (and to others) and it was about 45 degrees. It’s cold at this camp at 4,000 feet elevation.
 
I can’t wait for next year!

 

 

Vail 2nd Quarter Results- Watching Real Estate Will Be Interesting

Given that Vail says the snow up to about Christmas was the worst in 30 years, you have to say that they really did okay. But I think the most interesting thing in the whole 10Q was the disclosure that 13 holders of contracts to purchase Ritz-Carlton Residences had sued to get out of the contracts and get their deposits back because of a disputed delivery date.

If you really wanted your new 2nd home, you probably don’t sue because it’s a little late being finished. Maybe you negotiate for some free upgrades (heated toilet seats?), but you don’t sue to get out of the deal. Unless, of course, you can no longer afford to buy the place and/or it’s now worth a lot less than you’ve agreed to pay for it. Hey, why should the winter resort real estate market be different from other real estate markets?
 
Apparently it isn’t. In the risk factors section, Vail talks about the “… increased risk associated with selling and closing real estate as a result of the continued instability in the capital and credit markets and slowdown in the overall real estate market, including the risk that certain buyers may be unable to close on their units due to a reduction in funds available to buyers and/or decreases in mortgage availability, as well as the potential of certain buyers being successful in seeking rescission of their contracts” They go on to note that, “… the Company cannot predict the ultimate number of units that it will sell and/or close, the ultimate price it will receive, or when the units will sell and/or close.”
 
Vail “… currently does not plan to undertake significant development activities on new projects until the current economic environment improves.” The 10Q can be found here http://investors.vailresorts.com/ and you might also want to review the March 11 investor presentation.
 
I’ve commented before, though long ago, on the relationship between mountain and real estate development for winter resorts with both. To maximize total value, you have to synchronize the development of both, not letting either get too far ahead of the other. As Vail puts it, “The Company’s real estate development projects also may result in the creation of certain resort assets that provide additional benefit to the Mountain and Lodging segments.”
 
Real estate revenues are recognized in the income statement only when a sale closes. Obviously this means, as we’ll see when we look at the financial statements, that sometimes there’s a lot and sometimes there’s a little. That’s just the way the real estate development business is. But of course if you don’t start projects, it’s going to be kind of hard to finish them and recognize revenue as your book of projects under development runs down. Let’s look at the numbers to see what this means.
 
Mountain revenue for the quarter ended January 31, 2010 was up 1.35% to $261 million compared to the same quarter the previous year. Lodging revenue fell 6% to $38.7 million. Real estate revenue pretty much disappeared, falling from $89.2 million to $870,000. That’s largely determined by when the sales close assuming, of course, that there are sales in the pipeline.
 
The Mountain segment includes the operations of the company’s five resorts as well as the related ski school, dining, and retail/rental operations. About half of its revenue comes from lift tickets, including season passes. It’s recognized in the income statement over the course of the season. Season pass revenue was up about 9% this season and is expected to represent about 35% of list ticket revenue for the fiscal year.   Vail noted that the Mountain EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization) was up by 3.6% due to this increase and to the “…cost reduction initiatives implemented during the second half of the prior fiscal year.” 
Mountain operating expenses were down 2.2%, the result of a freeze in the company’s 401K matching contributions, a company-wide wage reduction plan, and better inventory management offset by some higher food, fuel and medical costs.
 
In the Lodging segment, the average daily rate the company earned on its owned hotels and managed condos fell by 2.1% in the quarter compared to the same quarter the previous year. Revenue per available room was down 11.1%. EBITDA was down from $2.5 million to $0.9 million for the quarter ended January 31, 2010. This was due almost entirely, according to the company, to declines at Keystone properties and to higher employee medical costs.
 
Total revenue for the quarter ended up declining by 22.7% from $389 to $301 million. This was almost completely the result of the decline in real estate revenue. Total operating expenses fell 21.7%. All three segments showed declines, but again, most of the total was the result of real estate expense falling from $60 to $7.4 million.
 
Net income fell 32.8% from $60.5 to $40.7 million. And yes, it’s because of the decline in real estate revenue, but how do we look at Vail’s overall performance given the variability in real estate?
 
We can start by subtracting segment operating expense from segment revenue for the quarter and constructing the little chart below and show what I guess we’ll call operating income for each segment for the January 31, 2010 quarter and the same quarter last year. The numbers are in thousands.
 
SEGMENT                                            1/31/10                                1/31/09                               
Mountain                                              $106,960                              $102,301
Lodging                                                $888                                     $2,453                                  
Real Estate                                         $(6,547)                                $29,649
Total                                                      $101,301                              $134,403
 
Remember that below this line we’ve got all that interest, amortization, taxes, depreciation, investment income, and net income attributable to noncontrolling interests. How shall we allocate it among the three segments?
 
You got me. Perhaps I shouldn’t quite put it like that. There are ways to allocate, and some of them would be better than others, but you’d find that there isn’t just one right way to do it. But remember what I said (and what Vail said) above. The performance of each of these segments is related to the others.
 
Let’s say you got a dollar in the bank, and you need a total of three dollars to do a few projects. So you borrow two dollars and add them to the one dollar you already have in the bank to do the projects (they’re small projects). The projects are all related to each other. You have to pay interest on two of those three dollars, but which project do you allocate that interest expense to? Does it matter? Probably not. Would you learn anything by doing it? I don’t think so. Could you screw up your comparisons across sectors? You bet.
 
Vail’s quarterly earnings of $40.7 million represent a return on end of the quarter equity of 5.2%. It was 8.1% for the same quarter next year. They’ve got very little debt coming due in the next four years- only $2.6 million through fiscal 2013. At the end of the quarter, they had no debt drawn under their senior credit facility and the land they are holding for development was bought at favorable prices which means a low holding cost. They report that through March 7, for the season, they’ve seen some recovery since the poor early season snow. Total skier visits were now up 0.4% and lift ticket revenue was up 1.6%.
 
Vail suffered like most businesses from the recession. As you think about their future, the extent and timing of the recovery is where you have to focus. When can they begin to develop real estate again and what will they be able to sell it for? How committed are snow sliding consumers, and will their caution be, to any significant extent, a long term condition? 

 

 

Quik’s Quarter Ended Jan. 31, 2010; Great Tactics- What’s the Growth Strategy?

A sales decline of 2.4% for the quarter ended Jan. 31, 2010 compared to the same quarter the prior year, from $443.7 to $432.7 million isn’t what you’d like to see.  Then you notice that their gross margin percentage rose from 46.7% to 51.3% and that their gross profit was up by 7.2% even with the sales decline and things look better.  Quik attributes this to a better economic environment, improved sourcing, reduced discounting and good inventory management.

 A year ago, on Jan. 31 2009, their inventory was $380.5 million.  At January 31st this year, it was down to $301.2 million, a decline of almost 21%.  Very impressive.  They have also reduced their receivables by 13.5% over the year and days sales outstanding (how long it takes them to collect their receivables) fell from 72 to 64 days.  Cash is up from $42 to $150 million.  Their current ratio has improved over the year from 1.63 to 2.24, indicative of the capital raised and the restructuring of their bank lines to improve liquidity.  Their total debt to equity has also improved from 3.81 to 2.91, also largely due to the equity raised.

But their long term debt and lines of credit still total $977 million.  While that’s down from $1.013 billion a year ago, it’s still a lot and they’ll have to work to reduce it if they want to improve their operating flexibility and maybe refinance their expensive (15% plus warrants) debt that they got from Rhone capital.  They expect to reduce that debt by about $100 million a year over the next three years.  In the conference call, they increased their estimate of free cash flow from $50 million to $75 million for the year.

I don’t typically lead with a balance sheet discussion, but it’s so pivotal to Quik’s future that it seemed to make sense.  Back to the income statement.

Selling, general and administrative expenses fell 1.8% to $203 million.  They expect their marketing expenses to be around $100 million in the current fiscal year, down from $120 million last year.  Operating income grew from $345,000 to $19 million.

Interest expense, to nobody’s surprise, was up from $14 to $21 million.  They expect total interest expense this year to be around $92 million $26 million of which, Quik reminds us, is noncash.  The loss from continuing operations was $65.2 million in this quarter last year, compared to $4.6 million this year.  The net loss fell from $194.4 million last year ($128 million of that was Rossignol related) to $5.4 million in the quarter ended January 31, 2010.

During the quarter, sales decreased by 8% in the Americas.  They fell by 2% in Europe and rose 16% in Asia/Pacific.  In constant currency terms they were down 12% in Europe and 15% in Asia/Pacific.  That translates into a decline in sales overall in constant currency terms of 11%.  As reported (that is, ignoring currency fluctuation), revenues were $187 million in the Americas, $178 million in Europe, and $67 million in Asia/Pacific.

They commented that the juniors market was difficult.  The Americas decrease was in Roxy and Quiksilver, offset by an increase in DC.  However, they note that increase “was partially related to the timing of shipments,” which means some of the increase was not organic growth, and will reduce next quarter’s sales.  In constant currency in Europe, the story was about the same, with declines in Roxy and Quiksilver offset by some growth in DC.

As with any company, there’s a limit to how much improvement you can see from inventory management, expense control, and sourcing improvements.  There is, I suppose, always room to do better, and I’ve been urging companies for maybe two years now to focus on gross profit dollars.  But at some point, to improve profits, you have to sell more.  What Bob McKnight said in the conference call was that Quik is “… in a prime position to benefit from future improvements in the world’s economies and in particular in consumer spending.”

I believe that, but what I also hear him saying is that they really need that improvement to get growth and profitability back on track.  For the second quarter, they expect to “…generate earnings per share on a diluted basis in the low single digit range.”  CFO Joe Scirocco believes they can still achieve the full year revenue objectives they outlined last quarter (he didn’t say profit projections), “…although some definite challenges remain, including a challenging juniors market, foreign currency headwinds, and uncertainty at retail.”

We didn’t get (and probably shouldn’t expect in a conference call) a lot of specificity as to where growth can come from.  CEO McKnight highlighted the core shop strategy that has been rolled out for all three brands where they have developed and are selling product only in their own stores and the best independent retailers.  I think that’s a great, and necessary, thing for them to do.  As I’ve argued before, however, I’m not sure that will be the source of enough additional revenue to make a big financial difference.  Hope to be wrong about that.

So I’m impressed by the steps Quik has taken to improve their liquidity, control expenses, manage their inventory and restructure their businesses for improved efficiency.  The last step will be reducing their leverage.  That’s just going to take some time and some cash flow.

The source of their future revenue growth (which they need if only because of their increased interest expense) is not clear to me.  I’ve said that a couple of times before in comments on their filings and it’s still true.  Like all of us, they are dependent on and hoping for a recovery in consumer spending.  They’ll get- are getting- some.  Like all of us, it won’t be as much as we’d like or have gotten use to.  But what they really need are some new places to sell their products.  At least in the U.S., I don’t know where else they can go with their distribution.  Maybe there are some opportunities in the rest of the world.

 

 

An Interesting Advertising Observation; What Does it Mean?

I was recently paging through a couple of Transworld consumer mags (Surf and Skate I think) and something caught my attention. I don’t know what made me notice it, but I suddenly realized there was not one non-endemic advertisement in either mag. Okay, maybe I missed one, but there was no Ford Trucks, Mountain Dew, AT&T or any other of the major brands that had previously graced their pages. There was Nike. I’ll get back to that.

Talking about coming full cycle. I remember when there use to be none of these big advertisers in Transworld’s magazines at all and we thought that was a good thing. I had conversations with various Transworld people years ago about their efforts to work with these major brands. The brand, having exactly no understanding of the industry or the demographic they wanted to reach, would submit ads that were, well, not specifically too good. Transworld would try to work with the company to get it to change its ad, but that meant working through the advertising agency who could hardly go back to their client and say, “Actually, our ad sucked and we didn’t know what we were doing.”

And Transworld, no matter how much they wanted the money (and they charged these companies more than they charged industry brands) wouldn’t take the ads that sucked. Those ads made Transworld’s magazines look bad and inevitably generated irate phone calls from industry advertisers who found their ads next to the sucky ads of the companies that didn’t know what they were doing.
The economy has led brands in all industries to cut back on their advertising. But I can guarantee that Ford, Mountain Dew and AT&T have not stopped advertising everywhere. They have stopped advertising, however, in what I still consider the leading action sports consumer publications and have decided their dollars are better allocated somewhere else. Why?
I should note that if I had other action sports publications in front of me, I bet I’d find the same trend so this is not about Transworld.
You advertise through a particular channel because you believe that channel is the best way to reach and influence customers and potential customers. I can guarantee that action sports publications do not take up a big chunk of Ford’s advertising budget. Even though it’s a relatively small number, they found it expendable. Aside from the economy, there are a couple of possible reasons for that decision.
First are the changes in distribution that have occurred in the industry. Recent attempts to control certain distribution channels not withstanding, our products are all over the place. I suppose we could be critical of that (Hell- we are! All the time!), but it’s pretty much inevitable industry evolution.  In general (some brands are exceptions), we have sent the message that we’re not as exclusive as we use to be. And more and more of our customers are non participants so I’m guessing that the big non endemic companies no longer think it’s quite as necessary to be in the core publications to reach most of the action sports customers.
There’s also a certain decline in the panic that big non endemic companies felt when surf/skate/snow were growing like weeds and generating all kinds of publicity and excitement. Big brands were worried they were missing something, even if they weren’t exactly sure what it was.
Finally, there’s the recognition that the disposable income of the core magazine consumer has declined. Obviously, this has been made worse by the recession, but the decline in middle class real income is a long term trend that started before 2007.
Then there’s Nike, still advertising away in Transworld. The difference is that Ford, whoever they want to sell them to, still wants to sell pickup trucks. Nike wants to sell skate/surf/snow products and, in the process, build brand credibility across our demographic to sell the other related products they make.
So you can see why Nike is still in action sports magazines, but other big companies aren’t. The same analysis applies to Quik, Billabong, Volcom and other large action sports brands (if we can call them large in the same breath with Nike). They’ll be advertising in action sports magazines, but will spread their dollars to other advertising platforms as well. Because just like Nike, they want credibility in action sports to translate into sales in a broader market.
Only it’s not quite like Nike. Nike already has credibility and consumer recognition in the broader market and now wants to build that credibility in a small subset of that market. If they should fail (and it doesn’t look like they are going to), Nike will be just fine. Action sports industry brands are trying to go the other way- from a smaller, defined market to a much larger one. They focus every day on how to gain credibility in the larger market while keeping it in the smaller. They believe that without the later they can’t develop the former. And yet, ultimately, if they want to keep growing, they have to be able to keep larger market credibility even if they lose it in the market where they have their roots.
I think that, as much as anything, explains why our industry has evolved the way it has.

 

 

Zumiez’s 10K for Year Ended Jan. 30, 2010; The Strategy’s the Thing

In my analysis of Billabong and Genesco, I have spent some time talking about their retail strategies and the possible impact on the action sports retail market, especially on the core retailers.  Zumiez’s 10K has me thinking about this again.

I would first like to thank Zumiez for keeping their 10K to only 75 pages, simplifying my task and reducing my work load.  I have a theory that the best companies have the shortest 10Ks; business models that are simple to describe and fewer problems to explain.  Maybe that’s a new investment strategy.

Zumiez’s financial results, like with every other publically traded company in any industry, reflect the recession and their efforts to manage through it.  There was inventory control, expense management, a reduction in capital expenditures, and focus on continuing to follow their basic strategy (which can be done, as usual, when you have a strong balance sheet like Zumiez’s).

Zumiez ended their fiscal year with 377 stores in 35 states averaging 2,900 square feet each.  As they note, their size seems to leave them room to grow given the number of stores that other similar retail chains have.  New store openings have declined from 58 stores in fiscal 2008 to 36 in 2009 and a projected 25 in 2010.

Their customers are “…young men and women between the ages of 12 and 24 who seek popular brands representing a lifestyle centered on activities that include skateboarding, surfing, snowboarding, BMX and motocross.”

They go on to say:

 “Our stores bring the look and feel of an independent specialty shop to the mall by emphasizing the action sports lifestyle through a distinctive store environment and high-energy sales personnel. We seek to staff our stores with store associates who are knowledgeable users of our products, which we believe provides our customers with enhanced customer service and supplements our ability to identify and react quickly to emerging trends and fashions. We design our stores to appeal to teenagers and young adults and to serve as a destination for our customers.  Most of our stores, which average approximately 2,900 square feet, feature couches and action sports oriented video game stations that are intended to encourage our customers to shop for longer periods of time and to interact with each other and our store associates. To increase customer traffic, we generally locate our stores near busy areas of the mall such as food courts, movie theaters, music or game stores and other popular teen retailers. We believe that our distinctive store concept and compelling store economics will provide continued opportunities for growth in both new and existing markets.”

 They talk about this strategy in more detail in the 10K and you can see the whole thing at http://www.sec.gov/Archives/edgar/data/1318008/000119312510064532/d10k.htm.  Focus on pages one through nine.

Ignoring whether or not you think this strategy is valid (their history tells us it has been), you’ll notice that this description of their stores and how they position themselves could essentially be the same description that any independent core retailer would use.  Except of course the core retailer wouldn’t be in the mall (I guess by definition?) and doesn’t, therefore, have the ability to locate in high traffic areas in the mall.  So your typical independent core retailer might to be more dependent on destination traffic than a Zumiez.   Zumiez pursues, on a national scale, the same branding strategy the best independent retailers pursue.  “We seek to build relationships with our customers through a multi-faceted marketing approach that is designed to integrate our brand image with the action sports lifestyle.” They spent $822,000 on advertising in fiscal 2009.

In other words, as I’ve said a few dozen times before, the best retailers, chain or independent, give credibility to the brands they carry and do not rely on those brands to define them.  Zumiez is clearly not dependent on a handful of brands.  No single brand accounted for more than six percent of net sales in 2009.  Their private labels in total accounted for 15.7% of net sales, up only slightly over the last two years.  Ecommerce sales represented 2.3% of the total, up from 1.1% two years ago.

 And Zumiez has undeniable advantages in terms of negotiations with vendors and landlords, systems, and overall efficiencies associated with size.  Like they say, “compelling store economics.”  Genesco, by the way, pretty much said the same thing.  So would any multi hundred store retailer.  Here’s another kind of long quote that described part of that advantage.

“We have developed a disciplined approach to buying and a dynamic inventory planning and allocation process to support our merchandise strategy. We utilize a broad vendor base that allows us to shift our merchandise purchases as required to react quickly to changing market conditions. We manage the purchasing and allocation process by reviewing branded merchandise lines from new and existing vendors, identifying emerging fashion trends and selecting branded merchandise styles in quantities, colors and sizes to meet inventory levels established by management. We also coordinate inventory levels in connection with our promotions and seasonality. Our management information systems provide us with current inventory levels at each store and for our Company as a whole, as well as current selling history within each store by merchandise classification and by style.”

Pretty powerful stuff.  Then I noticed that in 2008, Zumiez’s net investment to open a new store (net of inventory and landlord contribution) was $311,000.  In 2009 it was down to $221,000.  In part that’s because of economic conditions, but it’s also indicative of the advantages of scale.

Let’s talk about the numbers while all this strategic stuff sinks in.  I’ll come back to it in my conclusions.

Net sales for the year were about even, falling $1 million to $407.6 million.  Comparable store sales were down 10% after having been down 6.5% the previous year.  Net sales per store were down 12.8% from $1.24 million to $1.08 million. Comparable store sales had grown an average of 12.6% a year in fiscal 2005 to 2007.  Gross profit as a percent of sales actually grew from 32.9% to 33.1%, an indication of good inventory management and control of the need to discount.  This gross profit percentage may look a bit low, but you have to consider how the company calculates it.

“Cost of sales consists of branded merchandise costs, and our private label merchandise including design, sourcing, importing and inbound freight costs. Our cost of sales also includes shrinkage, certain promotional costs and buying, occupancy and distribution and warehousing costs. This may not be comparable to the way in which our competitors or other retailers compute their cost of goods sold.”

I agree.  There’s no right or wrong way to do this but, though detail is lacking, I think Zumiez includes some costs that other don’t. 

Selling, general and administrative expense rose from $109 to $122 million both due to store openings and, I assume, because Zumiez had the balance sheet to let it continue to pursue its strategy.  As a percentage of sales, it rose 3% to 29.9%.

Operating profit fell by half from $24.6 to $12.7 million.  Though cash and cash equivalents grew from $78 to $108 million, interest income fell from $2.059 to $1.176 million, reflecting not only the difficulty in finding yield under current conditions but, I suspect, an unwillingness to take risk.  Net income fell from $17.2 to $9.1 million for the year.

Comparing fourth quarters you can see what looks like the beginning of some level of economic recovery (this is not unique to Zumiez).  Sales rose 5.5% from $125.5 to $132.4 million.  Same store sales had fallen 13.4% in the quarter ended Jan. 31, 2009.  They only fell 1.7% in the quarter ended Jan. 30, 2010.  Okay, so maybe that isn’t good news but it’s sure less bad.  Gross profit as a percent of sales was up from 32.4% to 36.3%.  Net income rose from $6.3 to $8.8 million in the quarter ended January 30, 2010 compared to the same quarter the previous year.

The balance sheet has actually strengthened slightly from last year by the measures I use and is in good shape.  I won’t bore you with a detailed analysis of nothing interesting.

Now we’re back to those pesky strategic issues and you know what?  I don’t think I’m going to write a new conclusion.  I’m just going to go see if I can’t use the same one I used when I wrote about Genesco (the owner of Journey’s) a few days ago.  Here it is.  I’m quoting myself, which is a little strange.

“I wrote not too long ago about Billabong’s retail strategy.  They might agree with Genesco executives about how the retail environment is evolving.”

“My own expectation is that due to some of the pressures on core store described above, their numbers will tend to decline until we have just the right number to service the enthusiasts who are truly prepared to pay extra for expert advice and service in a community based environment.  I don’t know how many stores that is or how long it takes, but when it happens, we will have come full circle in the action sports core store business; because that’s how it use to be.”

Zumiez thinks they can be a core store in a mall.  They are the only one who puts it quite so directly, but others are thinking that way too.  If they’re right, and they have other business advantages (as described above) what does the model of a successful independent core retailer look like?

I’m going to the IASC sponsored skateboarding conference this month and am going to moderate a panel discussion on retailing.  As you can see, I’ll have some interesting questions to ask.

 

Genesco’s Take on The Retail Business

Genesco, the owner of Journey’s, reported its results for the quarter and year ended January 10th in early March. A couple of days later they made an investor presentation that discussed these results. I’ll talk briefly about their numbers, but what really caught my attention was their discussion of the retail environment and their retail strategy.

Genesco operates 2,270 retail stores in the United States and Canada. 90% of their revenues are retail and 10% wholesale. Revenues for the year were $1.57 billion, up only slightly from the previous year’s $1.55 billion. Earnings for the year were $28.8 million compared to $150.8 million the prior year, but there was a huge legal settlement that accounted for $124 million of the difference. The company says that adjusting for that settlement and some other non operating items, earnings from continuing operations grew from $40.8 to $43.1 million. Net earnings per share declined from $1.87 to $1.81.

Comparable store sales were flat in the 4th quarter compared to the same quarter the previous year. The Hat World group increased by 6% and Journey’s declined by 3% in the quarter.
 
The Journey’s group represents 48% of the year’s sales. Hat World group is 30%. However, they each generated about the same level of operating income during the year. The Journeys group, which includes Journeys, Journeys Kidz, and Shi by Journeys includes 1,025 stores of which 819 are Journeys. The Hat World group had 921 stores at fiscal year end.
 
Genesco is looking at “very modest” store growth in Journeys. They say they don’t want to have happen to them what has happened to other retailers who have over extended themselves on their store count. They mention Footlocker, The Gap, and Starbucks as retailers who are closing stores because they got a bit overextended. They might have mentioned PacSun as being over extended as well. They plan to open only 50 net new stores over the next five years across the whole company. The majority will be in the Hat World group.
If you can’t grow stores, you’d better improve your comparable store sales and control costs. One of the trends they think may be favorable to them is “a shift out of athletic shoes into brown.” They say they are only seeing hints of it now, but should know in the spring. That should get our attention don’t you think? Would it be completely a surprise given the number of athletic shoes and shoe brands out there? Yes, there can be too much of a good thing and markets can become saturated.
 
They also note that they have another wave of store leases coming up for renewal. They expect to get lower costs and more favorable terms when those leases are renegotiated. Overall, they expect that with very modest store growth and comparable store sales growing by only two to three percent, they can expand operating margins from the current five to eight percent and grow earnings per share by 15% to 20% annually. Obviously, they see a lot of opportunity in reducing costs and operating efficiently.
 
The other thing that’s happening, as they describe in discussing their hat, uniform and sport apparel business, is that they “…are consolidating the industry. The mom and pops are going out of business or they are credit constrained and can’t stay fresh.” That sounds the slightest bit familiar.
 
The hat business, by the way does include stores that just sell hats. But it also includes stores, under the Lids name, where you can buy branded sports apparel of all kinds and the uniforms that you need, for example, for school sports. They go very deep in their hats, apparel and uniform stores, and the merchandise mix favors the local teams.
 
President and CEO Robert Dennis talked about how the economics of their hat and hat related business has changed as they have gone from 150 to 800 stores since he got there. The difference, he says, “is enormous.” There is tremendous leverage with landlords, the leagues from whom you license product, vendors, and infrastructure.
 
He notes that the team sports business is highly fragmented with perhaps 5,000 dealers, and Genesco’s business in this area is already the second largest even though it’s small. He doesn’t quite know whether to characterize their strategy in this space as a rollup or displacement. But he notes that when, for example, a five store chain has a lease coming up for renewal, it will find Genesco on their landlord’s doorstep taking over that space. Wonder who the landlord would rather have as a tenant? He also characterizes most of these small players’ systems as being “from the dark ages.” That, I’m afraid has the ring of familiarity as well.
 
Action sports is kind of in the hat business, but we’re sure not interested in selling uniforms and team jerseys. But Genesco’s description of this retail environment and how they take advantage of it has to sound at least a little familiar as well. Larger retailers in our space are certainly taking advantage of the same pressure points Genesco is, and we can’t expect it to stop.
 
I wrote not too long ago about Billabong’s retail strategy. They might agree with Genesco executives about how the retail environment is evolving.
 
My own expectation is that due to some of the pressures on core store described above, their numbers will tend to decline until we have just the right number to service the enthusiasts who are truly prepared to pay extra for expert advice and service in a community based environment. I don’t know how many stores that is or how long it takes, but when it happens, we will have come full circle in the action sports core store business; because that’s how it use to be.    

 

 

Billabong’s Semi-Annual Report

Billabong released its numbers for the six month ended December 31, 2009 last week and held a conference call. Though clearly not immune to a tough economy, the company’s raising of capital to strengthen the balance sheet, long term focus on brand equity, willingness to lose some sales rather than become too promotional, realism as to the operating environment, and nuts and bolts management of costs and inventory has left them in a pretty good position.

But what really caught my attention was the discussion of retailing during the conference call. I’d like to spend some time on that before I get to the financial results.
Billabong’s Retail Perspective
Billabong closed the year with 360 company owned retail outlets, up from 335 June 30th. 90 of those are in the European segment, 157 in Australasia, and 94 in the Americas. Retail now represents just a little more than 25% of the company’s sales.
No, I don’t know why those three numbers don’t add up to 360. I’ve emailed Billabong to ask.
Billabong CEO Derek O’Neill is clear in the conference call that we shouldn’t “…expect for retail to suddenly become a huge component of our business but it’s clear we will continue to identify opportunities to get our product to market where required.” I read a little bit of ambiguity as to Billabong’s retail strategy into that statement, or maybe a little understandable reluctance to state what they really think of the retail situation. Later conference call comments provided more insight into their thinking and created an intriguing picture of the retail market as Billabong sees it and how they may approach it.
They start by noting that there is still some softness in prebooks (though things have improved) both in terms of the size of the orders and the numbers of retailers they have received orders from for summer. CEO O’Neill indicates that 80% of the account base (referring, I think to the US) had orders in, where it would have been 90% two years ago. There is still “…a little bit of an apprehension to actually placing forward orders, and some customers preferring to do a little bit of business in season.” “I’d say that’s a trend that’s probably going to be there for a little while,” he continues.
I’d be curious to know just what he means by “a little while.”
Next, he talks about tight credit conditions and the health of independent retailers. “I can’t sit here at all and say that all the accounts that we are currently dealing with will still be there in three months time,” is how he puts it. He also thinks they may have to tighten credit by the end of the current six months.
Finally, he says, “If you look at the wholesale level, most of the business going on, the buyers are focused on your price point category and up to your mid price print category.”
Any brand talking about the US market (and some other countries as well) might say the same thing. We’ve got a new set of economic conditions that look to be long lasting where independent retailers are falling out, the survivors are ordering more cautiously, consumer spending is down and focused on low to middle price points.
No surprise there, but now the plot thickens. “…in our own retail, which has definitely outperformed our wholesale side in this period, in our own retail we can showcase and merchandise a product across all the price points and we’re doing really well right across the board.”
“The cycles with our own retailers, we are beginning to drop product into our own retail even faster than wholesale channel. We are beginning to, on certain key styles…build product that may go into our own retail before even the wholesale consumer sees it in an indent (sic) process. But we’re beginning to utilize our own retail to test product a lot more and we’re just becoming a little more focused on that shortening of the whole supply side.”
And then, just to make this even more interesting, he says, “If you look at the big retail brands out there, they don’t have a buyer to get past, they just decide what they’re going to make and they put it in their own stores and therefore they could have a very short cycle.…we are looking more and more at some of our own retail stores where we can looking at touching on a more vertical model. And not having that delay with going out and having an eight week ordering pattern and then go away and ordering product, we’ll just go straight to retail.”
What percentage of total revenues could retail represent?” somebody asked. “It’s probably going to depend on what happens with the wholesale account base,” O’Neill responded.
There’s more, but I think that’s enough quotes. You can see the report and the conference call here. http://www.billabongbiz.com/news-business.php
In summary, given foreseeable economic conditions, Billabong isn’t sure what level of growth and profitability it can rely on from its independent retailers. Right now, it believes it can merchandise and sell its product better in its own stores because of the independents’ reluctance to order and tendency to order the lower to mid priced items, and its results bear that out. It’s also looking for ways to short cut its product cycle so it can have product sooner that it will just drop in its own stores before it gets to the independents. This is also, in part, a response to the branded retailers. Dare I say Forever 21? Seems like they are the poster child for product cycle blues these days.
Not to belabor the point, and certainly not to put words in Billabong’s mouth, but if a well managed company like Billabong is unsure of the role and importance of independent retailers going forward, and thinks they can do better business in their own stores, how will the role of those independents evolve? It’s always been an industry article of faith that core retailers were the bedrock of the business but that might be changing as companies get large and we become increasingly fashion based and fashion competitive.
By the Numbers
I have to begin by reminding you that Billabong’s functional currency is the Australian Dollar, and the numbers here are in that currency. Just for reference, at the moment one U.S. dollars equals 1.12 Australian dollar. A year ago a U.S. dollar cost 1.55 Australian dollars. That’s a 28% change over the year and that can wreak havoc on your financial planning and reporting. In this case, it did so I’m going to report some constant currency results along with reported results. Management notes that each one cent movement in the average monthly exchange rate between the Australian and the US dollar for the five months of the year that are left above or below the 0.90 rate they are planning will change reported net profit after taxes by $500,000 from their projection. 
Revenues fell 10.8% in reported terms from $810 million in the half year ended December 31, 2008 compared to the half year ended December 31, 2009. They were only down 2.8% in constant currency.
In the Americas, reported sales were 17.6 lower, but only down 6.2% in constant currency. They point out that “…direct comparisons to the prior year are somewhat misleading. The latest result includes a full six months of trading from DaKine versus three months in the prior year. The prior corresponding period also included three months of trading in the period that preceded the global financial crisis.”
They also note that sales to PacSun were down about 50% for the half year. Billabong anticipates that “…the retailer’s percentage contribution to the Group’s overall North American sales will decline to the single-digit level across the full financial year.”
Given Billabong’s focus on brand equity and interest in selling higher end product, I have to agree with their approach, though I don’t know how they easily replace those sales.
European sales were $164 million, down 7.6% in reported terms but up 2.6% in constant currency. Billabong reports strong momentum in Europe. Australasia revenue fell 2.5% in reported terms but only 1.4% in constant currency.
With sales down, cost of goods fell 14.2% as reported from $373 to $321 million. Gross margin percentage actually strengthened from 53.8% to 55.5%.   Selling general and administrative expenses were down 7.7% from $260 to $239 million. Finance costs fell 40.8% from $20.6 to $12.2 million due to the repayment of debt following the May 2009 raising of capital.
Reported net profit was down 15.4% from $82.4 to $69.7 million. They blame that almost entirely on unfavorable movements in exchange rates.
Much of the strengthened balance sheet is the result of the capital they raised in 2009. Between December 2008 and December 2009 cash increased from $169 to $213 million. Receivables fell 15% from $394 to $334 million and they reduced inventories 23.8% to $247 million. Total current assets were down 10.6% and noncurrent assets fell 11.3% from $1,317 to $1,168 million.
Trade and other payables were down 34.5% from $273 to $178 million. That explains most of the drop in current liabilities from $302 to $215 million. The current ratio improved from 3.04 to 3.81.\
By far the biggest change in the non-current liabilities is in borrowings which, as a result of the capital raised, were reduced by half from $810 to $397 million. Deferred payments also fell significantly from $161 to $107 million, reflecting a $34 million payment to the former owners of Dakine and other payments as well.
Between earnings and the equity raised, total equity grew 34% to $1,190 million. Total liabilities to equity plunged from 1.51 to 0.67. This is my kind of balance sheet!
Billabong is confident, but a bit cautious about the rest of the year.
“Retail markets remain extremely volatile and difficult to predict, consumer spending patterns remain erratic and global economic concerns continue to weigh on general sentiment. Against this backdrop, the Group’s North American business continues to experience challenging conditions. While there is some stability emerging within the independent specialty channel, there is no recovery evident amongst the Group’s larger mall-based customers. Australasia is showing mixed performances, with South Africa, Japan and New Zealand expected to remain soft but the balance of the region remaining steady. Europe, a highlight in the first half, is expected to remain relatively buoyant.”
They expect better foreign exchange hedge rates and the impact of previous expense reductions to help their results. The most intriguing thing to me, however, is still their perspective on and approach to the retail business. It will be interesting to see if other action sports brands share their perspective and if any take a similar approach.

The BRA/IASC Roundtable at ASR

As they do every ASR, IASC and BRA hosted a round table meeting by invitation only to discuss issues of mutual interest and, as usual, I attended. The meeting was well attended and the exchange lively.

The first issue on the table was Manufacturers’ Suggested Retail Pricing (MSRP) and Minimum Advertised Pricing (MAP). I’ll assume you know what those things are. People in the room were generally in favor of both and I’d have to admit that I’m not necessarily against them. Though as I mentioned in the meeting, managing distribution well is perhaps more important in keeping prices up.
What concerns me about both MAP and MSRP is that they feel like potential excuses not to manage your business well. I was impressed with the retailer in the meeting who said, more or less, “We got some belts with price tags on them but we ripped them off and priced those belts $5.00 higher because we knew that’s what we could sell them for. MAP? MSRP? How about knowing your customer, your market, and your inventory? Don’t let these kinds of tools, which may have their uses, have too much influence on your thinking.
Honestly, I’m not quite sure what the second issue was, but it ended up with the usual hand ringing about margins on skate hard goods needing to be higher.
I worked up some righteous anger, but then Don Brown ended the meeting before I could get a word in. Probably just as well.
But after the meeting I reminded everybody who would listen that the previous ASR, IASC had sponsored a seminar where a major topic of discussion was Gross Margin Return on Inventory Investment (GMROII). Cary Allington from Action Watch had presented some very interesting numbers showing that if you took inventory turns into account, the margins on skate decks were not nearly as bad as people thought.
I had been arguing for a while that our new economic circumstances required a focus on gross margin dollars- not just gross margin percentages. Actually, I first suggested that years ago.   Cary brought GMROII to me attention and I wrote an article about it. I knew that inventory turns and inventory dollars were important, but GMROII gave me an elegant and effective way to put them together and compare how profitable it to sell a skate deck compared to, say, a pair of skate shoes.
So the source of my pissedoffness was that here we were again lobbying for higher margins, while ignoring turns and margin dollars and data suggesting that on a GMROII basis, margins on skate decks weren’t half bad. And I’m sure we’ll have the same discussion at the next ASR.
The article is on my web site and has a date of August 15, 2009 on it.  Cary’s numbers are in there and I think they will surprise some of you.

Notes From the SIA Show in Vegas, Uh, I Mean Denver

The beer is a lot cheaper in Denver, assuming you don’t actually consider the beers they handed you at the gambling tables in Vegas to be free. The hotels are more expensive and getting to said hotels from the airport takes longer.   Most of the people I talked with (by no means a scientific sample) would have preferred the show was still in Vegas but I’m sure we’ll all adjust. I have never had so many friendly people ask me if I needed help finding anything and tell me they hoped I had a nice day. If that happened in Vegas I’d probably think I’d done something wrong. They were certainly glad to see us in Denver.

But was it a “good” show? You know, I have certainly gotten old enough, and maybe wise enough to know that you can’t judge a show just by walking around it, though we are all guilty of that to some extent. It was a good show for me, and snowboard industry booths seemed busy enough. I have to confess I didn’t spend much time in the ski part.
So I’ll leave the show analysis to others who have more and better data than I have. At the end of the day, the question is was it a good show for your company? But I do have a few observations we might have some fun with.
Happiest Company
Had to be Never Summer. Not only is their factory in Denver (they were offering tours) but economic conditions have suddenly made their long term business model of high quality, good margins, and limited distribution that leads to strong sell through something that absolutely everybody understands. They swear they won’t screw it up and I believe them.
Best Show Favor
Betty Rides party panties. Owner Janet Freeman gave me a couple of pair, but they were a little snug so I had to give them away.
Interesting Business Model
I ran into Cec Annett, formerly with Adidas, who’s now the CEO of The Clymb (www.theclymb.com).   It’s a membership site where they sell, for only a couple of days for each item, quality overstocks of product at big discounts from industry brands. There’s no charge to be a member, but an existing member has to recommend you. The brand doesn’t have to worry about the product showing up on Ebay, and the presentation is very professional- the brand image is supported. The financial model is also intriguing. Cec, please remember this nice plug when you’re rich and famous and, in the meantime, can you get me signed up as a member?
Small Booths
A number of major brands had much smaller booths than last year and I say good for them. A trade show booth should be exactly the size you need to do whatever business you do and not influenced by the size of your competitor’s booth. I guarantee that if you have a product that sells well at retail with good margins your customer will buy it even if you don’t have a two story booth the size of a house with a helicopter on top (who besides me remembers that?)
Large Booth
Burton and its associated brands took up around 10% of the total floor space in the snowboard area. The Burton brand by itself had the largest footprint of any company there. Things must be going really well at Burton for them to have paid SIA’s standard rate of $11 per square foot for premium members for all that space.
Guy with the Best New Job
It has to be Ryan Hollis who, after 12 years with Quiksilver, is now the General Manager of Mervin Manufacturing. Guess this means Mike Olson can give up doing the accounting.

Quiksilver’s Annual Report

In the middle of December, when Quik came out with its quarterly and fiscal year results and held aconference call, I pretty much ignored it.  I glanced at the release and read the conference call transcript, but I had no idea how to evaluate the results of a company that was highly leveraged without a complete balance sheet and the associated notes even though they included some summary balance sheet information in the release.

Read more